Vars Ski Resort — Sun-Drenched Skiing in the Southern French Alps
Vars is one of the southern French Alps’ most appealing ski resorts — offering a combination of reliable sunshine, good snow at altitude, and an authentic French alpine character that the larger Savoyard resorts often lack. Together with neighbouring Risoul, it forms the Forêt Blanche ski area: 185 km of pistes straddling two valleys in the Hautes-Alpes department, just a few hours from Marseille and Provence. For French skiers, Vars is a beloved resort; internationally it remains a quiet discovery.
Resort Overview
| Location | Hautes-Alpes, France (southern Alps) |
|---|---|
| Altitude | 1,650 m (base) – 2,750 m (summit) |
| Vertical Drop | 1,100 m |
| Piste km | 185 km (Forêt Blanche with Risoul) |
| Lifts | 58 (Forêt Blanche total) |
| Season | December – April |
| Best For | Sunshine, intermediates, families, authentic France, speed skiing |
Snow & Conditions
The southern Alps location gives Vars a unique climate: more sunshine than northern resorts (averaging 300 sunny days per year), combined with sufficient altitude to maintain good snow conditions. The summit at 2,750 m stays cold throughout the season, and north-facing slopes above 2,000 m hold powder well. The lower resorts in France’s southern Alps traditionally suffered from unreliable snow at village level, but modern snowmaking systems at Vars cover key access runs effectively.
The sunny, clear days that define Vars skiing make for exceptional visibility and comfortable on-piste temperatures — making it a popular choice for families with young children who find the cold of high-altitude northern Alpine resorts challenging.
Terrain & Skiing
The Forêt Blanche area spans both Vars and Risoul, covering 185 km with a good range of terrain. Vars itself is split into three villages — Les Claux, Sainte-Marie, and Saint-Marcellin — with Les Claux being the main ski hub. The ski area above Les Claux spans 100 km and connects via the Risoul link to the extended network.
Terrain is predominantly intermediate — wide, open red runs on the upper mountain give way to forest paths descending to the villages. The Piste de la Combe Froide at Vars is a local classic: a long, challenging descent with good pitch and excellent views. The resort also hosts the Speed Skiing World Championships on the legendary Chabrières slope, the fastest recorded course in the world (the speed record of 254.958 km/h was set here in 2023). The course is visible from the lifts but closed for public skiing during race preparation.
- Beginners: Very good — gentle slopes at all three villages, extensive nursery areas
- Intermediates: Excellent — 185 km of varied terrain, mostly blue/red
- Advanced: Good — some challenging blacks, off-piste options, speed skiing track
Speed Skiing at Vars
Vars is world-famous in the niche world of speed skiing. The Chabrières course has been the site of world record attempts for decades and regularly hosts the Speed Skiing World Cup. The 3 km course drops 880 m with an average gradient of 58%. While spectators can watch from a viewing area, the course is off-limits for recreational skiing — but the mystique adds to Vars’ character.
Lift Passes & Prices
- Forêt Blanche 1-day adult pass: ~€40–47
- Forêt Blanche 6-day adult pass: ~€220–245
- Vars-only day pass: ~€35 (single resort)
Forêt Blanche passes covering both Vars and Risoul offer the best value for a week’s stay. Children under 5 ski free; junior and family discounts apply. Early-booking online discounts of up to 15% are typically available.
Après-Ski & Dining
Vars has a relaxed, genuinely French après-ski scene — outdoor terraces with wine and crêpes rather than schnapps and thumping music. The village of Les Claux has a good selection of restaurants serving Hautes-Alpes cuisine: daube d’agneau (slow-cooked lamb), ravioles du Dauphiné, and the local Champsaur cheese. The Provençal influence creeps into the menus the further south you go, making the food at Vars distinctively different from standard Savoyard Alpine cooking.
Where to Stay
Accommodation ranges from budget apartments and résidences de tourisme (the French self-catering apartment blocks found in most purpose-built resorts) to comfortable 3-star hotels and traditional chalets. Les Claux has the widest choice and best ski access. Prices are noticeably lower than equivalent Savoie resorts like Les Arcs or La Plagne, making Vars excellent value for a self-catered family holiday.
Getting There
Vars is 90 km from Gap and 200 km from Marseille, making it one of France’s most accessible ski resorts from the south of the country. Grenoble Airport (2.5 hrs) and Lyon Saint-Exupéry Airport (3 hrs) are the nearest international airports. Gap TGV Station (when operating) provides rail access. A car is recommended for the most flexibility, though transfer buses operate from Grenoble and Gap. The road conditions are generally easier than high-altitude northern resorts.
Vars vs. Risoul
Vars and Risoul share a ski area but have different characters. Vars (Les Claux) feels more traditional French, with a village history predating skiing. Risoul is more purpose-built and modern. Both are covered by the Forêt Blanche pass. Vars is the better choice for those wanting village atmosphere; Risoul suits those prioritising slopeside convenience.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Forêt Blanche ski area?
Forêt Blanche (White Forest) is the combined ski area linking Vars and Risoul — 185 km of pistes across two valleys in the southern French Alps, covered by one lift pass.
Why is Vars famous for speed skiing?
The Chabrières slope at Vars holds the current speed skiing world record and has hosted top-level speed skiing competitions for decades. The course’s exceptional gradient, consistent snow, and clear conditions make it uniquely suited to the sport.
Is Vars sunny compared to other ski resorts?
Yes — the southern Alps location means Vars averages significantly more sunshine than northern French Alps resorts. This makes it popular for spring skiing and for families who appreciate warmth and visibility.
How does Vars compare to other southern French Alps resorts?
Vars and neighbouring Risoul form one of the southern Alps’ largest ski areas. Compared to Serre Chevalier (similar region, slightly larger), Vars is quieter and has a more compact village feel. Both are excellent choices for the same demographic.
Is Vars good for beginners?
Yes — all three villages (Les Claux, Sainte-Marie, Saint-Marcellin) have dedicated beginner areas and ski schools. The gentle terrain and sunny conditions make learning to ski here particularly enjoyable.
When is the best time to visit Vars?
February and March offer the best combination of snow and sunshine. March in particular is excellent — long days, warm temperatures, and good snow at altitude. January is quieter and colder. April can be good for spring skiing on the upper mountain.